What is..."Made is Italy"

The typical drive through the Tuscany region reveals sprawling fields of sunflowers, terraced Chianti vineyards and medieval towers. But beyond the staple tourist spots, stretching from the valley to the sea, are hundreds of small leather factories and tanneries replete with skilled artisans who know the grains of leather like the backs of their hands-- and students of Polimoda are lucky enough to see this industry hands on.

From the tanneries that transform hides into leather for such names as Gucci, Sergio Rossi, Prada, Versace and Fendi to the small artisan laboratories that craft the leather into shoes and bags, Tuscany is a well-oiled production model and the backbone of Italy's fabled, multibillion-dollar leather industry. Sante Croce sull'Arno and Ponte a Egola, two small towns just outside Pisa and on opposite banks of the Arno River, are the crown jewels of Tuscany's tannery district. The area has a radius of less than eight miles, but packed into this water-rich land are some 400 tanneries.

Alexander McQueen order at Caravel

After prying our way through the luxury sectors surrounding Firenze, we were able to see that these same hills are where large fashion houses are cutting costs and quality at every opportunity i.e. PRADA and slowly killing the concepts that built the “Made in Italy” label.

The tanning process and patenting skins

We love to think that we get what we pay for, however, more and more companies are exploiting the “Made in Italy” label by outsourcing labor to countries like China. Goods labeled "Made in Italy" may well be made in sweatshops staffed by Chinese immigrants. To the few left, “Made in Italy” means tradition, know-how and standards. It means not only made in Italy, but also made in the Italian way. It is important for Italians to pass down their traditions and teach the younger generations the skills and know how, especially in a time where hand labor is not a sought after profession.

Hand antiquing crocodile skins at Caravel

The fate of “Made in Italy” ultimately rests with the consumers. We should get in the habit of testing our products, researching the brands, KNOWING what we are buying, and then fighting for the quality. The conglomerates know what they are doing; they are rich because it works. LVMH and Richmont rely on the fact that most luxury customers don’t care where or how something was made, only that the famous LV or double C logos are perfectly visible.

“Made in Italy” will certainly never die, but we need to keep the people informed and companies like IPlace, along with publications like Dana Thomas’ Deluxe are giving us a heads up into the very private lives of luxury’s elite and their business practices. Maybe the future of Italy lies with the nameless bag that is certified made in Italy, but then again, we are a society driven by status symbols.

ECO-Fashion-BANTU

Photo from Net-a-Porter.com

This bold and exotic brand is the fashion child of German-born designer Yodit Eklund. Eklund launched her exotic swimwear line in 2008, taking inspiration from her African roots (Eklund's mother is Ethiopian) and her extensive travels around the continent. This socially conscious line is produced entirely in Africa, features prints taken from traditional wax cloth fabrics popular throughout many native cultures and provides much-needed local jobs. Live the life aquatic in this vibrant collection of halterneck one-pieces, high-waisted bikinis and bandeau two-pieces all embodying the label's signature vibrant patterns. Needless to say, I'm in love and the prices aren't too bad either! My favorite is the high waisted bikini--it's a perfect mix of bohemian and old school elegance. It seems Mara Hoffman might have some competition...

This week Net-a-Porter's online magazine is dedicated to eco-friendly fashion, you can check it out here. They also share their interview with Bantu designer which I posted below.

Make a statement!

Luisa Via Roma is known around the world for its exclusive high fashion and impeccable buying. One thing I want to focus on is their fabulous jewelry. Its easy to get distracted with the amazing shoes, clothing, and bags this store has to offer, but they also offer some really sick gems. So cool, in fact, its enough to make a non-buyer of bling flat broke. These pieces can be pricey, but whose to say you can't get a little inspiration to fill up your jewelry box on the cheap? Statement necklaces and rings--dig in! Bold statements add sizzle to any wardrobe, and the really unique pieces are worthy of keeping for awhile. Bring these necklaces out of hiding every ten years and feel like you just scored at the vintage shop-without forking up the dough!

Shop these looks here!

The future of fast fashion

Fast Fashion is not a term one would usually associate with fashion, but over the past decade, this concept has trampled the market in all aspects. Described as “trends designed and manufactured quickly and cheaply to allow mainstream consumers to take advantage of the current clothing styles at lower prices,” fast fashion has become a fashion byword that luxury retailers have grown to “dislike” and consumers have come to love.

Luxury retailers no longer have the monopoly on exciting and innovative experiences in fashion and with attitudes changing, the playing field has evened out. With the internet and the world at our fingertips (literally), anyone with a computer or decent camera phone can snag the look of runway masterpieces, and stores like Zara and H&M have this down to a tee.

At fast fashion outlets like Forever 21, Zara, and H&M, customers have reason to keep coming back since they update their stock every day. Usually this stock is in stores within weeks after major fashion shows--diminishing the concept of lead time. Zara does in one week what it would take Miu Miu six months to produce.

Zara, March 2010; Miu Miu SS 2010

H&M keeps the level of excitement going at a steady pace with their ingenious collaborations with exclusive, high-end designers whose products under normal circumstances would be beyond the buying capacity of a regular consumer.

Matthew Williamson for H&M, Summer 2009

But the question remains whether they will be able to sustain their seemingly endless successful run. Perhaps the other, more interesting conundrum is where do all these leave the luxury retail brands? Will they close shop or will they reevaluate their reason for being called luxury in the first place? I say enough commercialization of the luxury brands and get back to the essence of the business of exclusivity, exquisite craftsmanship, and unparalleled luxury.

Click here for more information on fast-fashion companies and their strategies.

STYLE ICON-Jane Birkin

This is a first of many style icons to grace this blog. Enjoy.

Born in London in 1946, Jane Birkin, has done it all--modeling, movies, singing and even directing. Her style has always captured our attention. Jane Birkin defines shabby chic, with a little bit of sex-kitten and glamour, and we all love her for it! Who can't love the wicker basket she totes everywhere? It's no wonder that Hermes, specifically Chairman Jean-Louis Dumas, designed the highly coveted "Birkin" bag after a flight with her in 1984. The Hermes Birkin remains today to be one of the few "true-luxury" items that can adorn a wardrobe.

My new festival essential-The "Chairless" Chair by Vitra

Last month at Salone del Mobile in Milan we saw some great designs, but this one was definitely a class favorite. The “Chairless” strap by Alejandro Aravena for Vitra gives extra support and comfort to those who rest in the cross legged position. According to Vitra, Chairless relieves the back and the thigh muscles from pressure, while the arms and hands which are needed for support when sitting cross legged are not used to support our legs, instead, they could be used for other tasks such as reading, writing, eating, drinking or whatever else you can imagine as your hands are now free. The strap is made of wear-resistant polyamide and is available in four color combinations.

My classmate Bay sporting the look at Vitra in Milan

This genius design has roots too-- buy it and be philanthropic! Aravena was inspired by a similar sitting strap commonly used by the Ayoreo Indians. The nomadic tribe living in the Gran Chaco region (border region between Paraguay and Bolivia) has employed such textile straps as a sitting aid for centuries. As a sign of gratitude to the original inventors, a portion of the proceeds from Chairless will go to the non-profit Foundation for Paraguayan Indian Communities, which directly supports the Ayoreo Indians--AWESOME!

With festival season now in full swing this is a must-plus its super comfy and fits nicely in a camelback! Check out the online store.

Riviera, Bellinis and Balenciaga!

I came across this tote online this week and fell in love. What better way to cruise around Portofino, Nice, and St. Tropez than in style-- and Balenciaga has it. Everything about this bag is effortlessly chic, it even comes with a little hand mirror! Get me one now please!

New Trend-Designers on Covers??

Finally we get to see the people who make the clothes where the clothes. Enough of celebs and socialites gracing the covers of fashion mags. Fantastic Man's sister mag, The Gentlewoman, hit the trend first premiering its magazine March 22, with Celine's Phoebe Philo as its first cover girl. Recently leaving the helm at Chloe, Philo has re-invented the classic beauty of Celine--making clothes everyone can and wants to wear! Click here to view the article>> The Gentlewoman

10 Magazine, who is celebrating their 10th anniversary, is another mag to sport the trend with ten covers including Alber Elbaz, Azzedine Alaia, Dolce & Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Helmut Lang, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfield, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford and Vivienne Westwood. Now we just have to pick which one to buy--Mr. Ford's sizzling stare certainly catches my eye!

Fashion Pioneers-BoF Interviews Dazed Jefferson Hack

In this interview Jefferson discusses relevant issues including the future of print magazines, the ipad, and the social revolution that affects both. Watch the video, be inspired, and in the words of Mr. Hack, "Go Create!"

The Business of Fashion
LONDON, United Kingdom.-Last week, BoF editor-in-chief Imran Amed sat down with Jefferson Hack, founder and editorial director of Dazed Group — independent publishers of Dazed & Confused, Dazed Digital, AnOther Magazine and AnOther Man — to discuss the future of fashion media amidst an industry landscape that’s being radically reshaped by the forces of digital revolution, rapid globalisation and a post-recessionary economy. Called Fashion Pioneers, the event was the first in a new series of intimate, live-streaming conversations between Mr. Amed and the fashion industry’s most interesting operators.

Spring Trend-Proenza Schouler

Photo courtesy of Style.com

Every bit of this duo's spring line screams style-maker. You are bound to get some stares wearing any of these frocks, but every fashionista needs at least one wild piece in her wardrobe.

I saw the line at Louisa Via Roma here in Florence. You can check out other styles at Net-a-Porter.com and Mytheresa.com

Bad Shoes and the Women Who Love Them

This book contradicts a lot of the shoes I discuss, however she's not a shoe-hater. She just points to the fact that some of us need to make better choices not only on silhouettes but also on quality.

Bad Shoes & the Women Who Love Them (Seven Stories Press; Mother’s Day 2010) is both a celebration of the spunk and sex appeal that can dress up a woman’s feet, and a lighthearted wake-up call to women to make informed decisions when buying and wearing fashionable shoes. The book explores our desires to wear ‘bad shoes’, delves into the fascinating history and psychology of them, and gives us the information we need to buy pairs that are both cute and comfy. Illustrated throughout by Vanessa Davis”.

via highsnobette.com

Remember Now by Karl Lagerfeld | Short Movie Part 1 & 2 (Chanel Cruise 2011)

Karl Lagerfeld’s much hyped short film debuted last week in the midst of Chanel’s St. Tropez resort celebrations. What do you think of Lagerfield's directorial attempt ?

Peek inside

Photo from Net-A-Porter

There are critics who say we will never again see another "it" bag. I am here to tell you they are biting their tongues, because the once easily forgotten Fendi has done it again this past year. Take a look at some lucky people who got their hands on the Peek a Boo.

Gossip Girl's Leighton Meester


Vogue L'Uomo's ever so fashionable Giovanna Battaglia has TWO!


SJP


Hurry up ladies, styles are hard to find and word is about to spread like wildfire! Similar styles available at Neiman Marcus, Louisa Via Roma, and other luxury retailers. If you can stand the wait (5 months), stop by a Fendi boutique and order your custom Peek a Boo, and they'll even inscribe your name in it--now thats luxury!

Pierre Hardy-ART FOR YOUR FEET

If this course has taught me one thing it is my serious lacking of knowledge in amazing footwear. Each week I will highlight one of my new loves--well, new to me!


SS 2010


Pierre Hardy is guilty of two things-- being a complete genius, and maintaining a rather exclusive clientele-until The Gap of course. Originally a student of dance and the fine arts, Hardy quickly found himself designing footwear for the eponymous Christian Dior design house in 1988 and continuing there for several years. Apparently intent on attaining the ultimate fashion hat-trick; Pierre also created the footwear and jewelry Collection for Hermes in 1990; finishing this amazing pedigree with a shoe collaboration at Balenciaga in 2001. Since 2007, Hardy has opened up to the masses with a rather successful collaboration with The Gap.



Pierre Hardy ignores fashion trends almost completely. That is how he retains the mastery of his own creations. He will reference Renaissance masters like Botticelli as well as other artists such as Daniel Buren. He will reference them only as a starting point, however. Using a glimmer, a glimpse of what strikes him from these artists, he then takes leaps and bounds into his own imagination where his own rules apply.

Balenciaga FW 2010

"I can draw on my bed, on my couch, on my dining-room table, in my car, anywhere; I don't care. I have no rules at all."

And that, my friends, is how Pierre Hardy can appeal to the masses and retain his exclusive aura.

L2 Generation Next Forum: May 14, 2010

This week New York is gearing up for Luxury Lab Generation next forum, and luxury brands should follow closely.

Who is generation next? WE ARE. Generation Y has birth dates from mid-70's to 2000's. Luxury Lab recently released a new ranking of Gen Y consumers “prestige” brands, measuring the affinity for 105 iconic brands, and the results were eye-opening indeed. According to Scott Galloway, founder of LuxuryLab, “Gen Y goodwill is arguably the closest thing to a crystal ball for predicting a brand’s long-term prospects. Just as Boomers drove the luxury sector for the last 20 years, brands that resonate with Gen Y, whose purchasing power will surpass that of Boomers by 2017, will be the new icons of prestige.”

Some more interesting facts about generation Y, courtesy of BOF.

Generation Y has wholeheartedly embraced social media and blogs. One in five survey respondents “like” a prestige brand on Facebook (this is the new Facebook language for being a ‘fan’), and one in ten follow a prestige brand on Twitter. Almost half have signed up to receive email from a prestige brand and almost one in 5 consider blogs one of their top three sources for information on prestige brands.

Steve also points out, print isn't dead. Thank goodness!
Stay tuned for updates on the forum!

Celine and Chloe's battlefield

It must be the season for fabulous bags, and more so, a little competition. Surely I am not the only one noticing the similarities between Chloe and Celine these days. I know Phoebe is a genius, but I was hoping her recent switch would revive Celine, not blend the two. I can't complain much though--both brands are absolutely fabulous!

Celine



Chloe

Made in Italy, Made in France, some brands wear the lying pants

It's time for our very first reality check. I am a firm advocate of the luxury industry, however, in the recent months I have become aware of the not so flattering practices of some Luxury moguls--including the highly coveted Chanel classic flip bag. Its no secret that Mr. Lagerfield reinvented the fashion house and made it new, modern, and hip. Let's face it, just about everyone wants this bag.

I was recently able to visit the manufacturer of this iconic bag. The Italian company is just outside Florence and also produces for Nina Ricci. Chanel outsources the last stage of production to this company. You can believe me when I say I was heart-broken to walk into a warehouse filled with patchwork lambskin stacked high and perfectly cut into pieces. The company can pop out nearly 5,000 bags a month. How do they do this? Not by hand, but by machine--in THREE hours! In fact the only part made by hand is the stitching of the handles. Crazy, I know. Lesson learned.

My suggestion is to wait for the celeb hype to calm down and purchase a vintage. Before the 90's there was such a thing as hand made, and most companies valued it.